Friday, November 25, 2016

Reflections of Australia and New Zealand

Trip Planning

Let me start by sharing my deepest appreciation for Jordan and his thoughtfulness and extraordinary trip planning. The single biggest treat of the entire trip was experiencing it with him (and Liz) by my side. How many places have you been when you wish you had some local knowledge or the feedback of a trusted friend or family member? In our case, Jordan delivered in spades. Not only was it a splendid trip to a magical location, but we saw way more than just the highlights. Thanks, again, Jordan! Amazing!!!



Accommodations

Having experienced the challenges of finding appropriate venues for travel groups (and that’s in the good ole USA, I might add), we’re keenly aware of the challenges therewith. Now, Liz and I feel like total buffoons having stayed in some of the most quaint, unique and otherwise “perfect” places in the land of Mordor. More than once, Liz and I found ourselves asking each other, “How did he find these amazing places?” I’d try to explain, but you just had to be there.

Neighborhood and view of our apartment in Kaiteriteri


Topography

I recall how much research we did before visiting Nova Scotia. We felt it had much to share and that we had done our homework. While I could never say that we were “disappointed” with Nova Scotia, we found that so much of what we saw was too similar to somewhere else or was just a close second by comparison. Not true of ANZ, especially New Zealand. It’s hard to do extensive travel without drawing some comparisons, but I must say, New Zealand was always just a cut above in terms of beauty and diversity.

As many of you already know, Kentucky (especially around Lexington) is arguably our favorite place in the USA. There were parts of New Zealand that resembled Kentucky, but we’d have to say NZ is KY on steroids! The same could be said of the Great Ocean Road when compared with the Pacific Coast including Oregon and Big Sur.

Great Ocean Road - Australia

Glacier Lake - New Zealand




Weather

Jordan had us prepared for nasty (Pacific Northwest) weather for our time in New Zealand. Well…for the entire fifteen days “down under” the weather was superlative. We suffered through one soggy day in “Grampions” near Melbourne and one dreary day in Queenstown. Other than that, the weather gods were smiling.

Bad weather day - Queenstown, NZ


People

While I have not personally traveled abroad a great deal, I have visited Africa, several European countries and Mexico. In all cases I was relieved to be back home with familiar language, customs and food. ANZ was a different experience entirely. While this was the furthest I’ve traveled, by far, the feeling was the most familiar of them all.Yes, I’m convinced we should have “no worries” and that "aye-kaie" means everything's fine, everything else was just, well…very comfortable.

The people were more than accommodating and seemed genuinely friendly and sociable. That said, they don’t jump over tables to greet you nor do they effervesce. They’re just solid, accommodating folk! I loved it!!

An interesting side-note: We saw/encountered very, very few Americans during our trip. Maybe that’s aye-kaie! We certainly had no worries.

Tim - 28 yr. old glacier guide at Franz Josef

Jim - our historic guide in Melbourne


Birds

Certainly no ornithologist, I do dig birds and have followed them throughout my time on planet earth. ANZ, and NZ especially, is a birders paradise. About the only things that appeared normal were some sparrows and cormorants. The rest of the species were all strangely ornate and beautiful! Just imagine gorgeous Cockatoos kicking around town like Grackles back home!

Wild Cockatoo


Sheep

It’s funny how there are things that blow you away and you just know the time and place will be “just right” for a Nat Geo photo op. Well…that's my sheepish story. In ANZ - sheep rule. There’s no question that I’ve seen more sheep in the last 15 days than in my lifetime in the US of A. They’re everywhere! At first you may think there are different varieties; some appear darker than others. Next you realize that a freshly shorn sheep is consummately lighter in color than his dirty unshorn brother/sister. You could use the same standards to deduce that some are slimmer than others, and that the lighter the sheep, the slimmer. But, you soon see what the real story is. As a trio, Liz, Jordy and I are curious to know how many times a nice, fat, healthy sheep is shorn per year. From what we gather from the locals it’s 1+ times per year.

Food

Can you say, “Off the charts!” Even the local downtown “take-away” joints do it with style and flair. Seems almost every menu we encountered labeled every menu item as “V”-Vegetarian, “Vegan”-obvious, “GF”- Gluten Free. Oatmeal = porridge and is served is numerous, fancy ways. Muesli is also a big breakfast favorite. And, could you guess, “lamb!?” Our most stellar meal was a multi-course culinary delight at “Steer” while in Melbourne. It ranks as one of the most memorable meals anywhere, anytime!!

Roads

New Zealand was discovered by and its roads and highways designed by a “pure” motorcyclist. Twists, turns, elevations all covered in pristine asphalt adorn its countryside. While we saw almost the entire land surface of New Zealand as a road trip, it could only have been eclipsed by “motor-bike!” Never seen better (and i’ve seen a lot!).





Driving

Most of you already know that ANZ does it all on the “wrong” side of the road. Now…that’s probably enough to create a legitimate challenge (especially for an old man). But, that part comes pretty easily. Sadly, there are several other nuances that challenge every moment you’re behind the proverbial wheel. Here’s a few:


  • Driver sits on the right instead of the left.
  • The shifting is still centered which means you use your left hand versus your right.
  • The instrument levers are reversed. By that, I mean, turning on your wipers does NOT alert other motorists of the direction your plan to turn. Nor does signaling a left turn clean your windshield.
  • Finally, all that is needed to upset your newly arranged apple-cart is a break for lunch. Lunchtime allows the exact appropriate amount of time for you to leave the parking lot and plow directly into oncoming traffic which is committed to going in a very un-American direction. Of course, the beauty lies in the variety of horn sounds you can embrace whilst making this unorthodox maneuver.
  • We all chuckled when, upon our return to the USA, the first turn we made was appropriately signaled by turning on the windshield wipers. The American motorists were neither impressed nor did they share our humorous reactions.

Flights

We traveled within two of the most modern aircraft to fly the friendly skies; those being the carbon fiber Boeing 787 and its predecessor the Boeing 777.  While the term impressive simply does not do either, justice…I must admit that you simply cannot throw enough classy aircraft at a 16-hour flight and make it “pleasant.” “Tollerable,” perhaps; but never pleasant. Now I understand that there are those that can fall asleep anywhere without exception. A certain Dutch fellow named Van Beek comes to mind, But…for those that require some semblance of comfort and quiescence, the aircraft to provide same just ain’t been built yet! But, hey; was it a great adventure having 800 free movies, 75 audio-books, a dozen TV shows and a rack full of tunes from which to choose? Youbetcha!!! And, I might add, it ain’t bad traveling with a United Platinum member. Short lines and preferential treatment is “my way to fly!!”



Immigration & Customs

Since Liz and I have elected “not-to-fly” as our travel mode of choice, you can imagine what an ice-water bath a 16 hour intercontinental, extra-hemispheric, flight experience this must have been. That said, we made the trip with one piece of carryon luggage and a purse and backpack. Even with that limited amount of luggage, it was “interesting.” Well, I mean 3 oz. of this liquid, and having my scissors confiscated and facial hair obscuring every opportunity at a “clean” immigration screening. That said, all our screenings went relatively smoothly. That includes that 1.75 hour process for two Americans to return to the USA from Australia, without incident. Even with that great expenditure of time, money and manpower, we slipped in with more than our allotted 3 oz. of liquid per container. Perhaps, we would have felt a bit safer had we been caught. Unfortunately, it seems like all hat and no cattle when it comes to serious screening at the border.

Photography

Over the past few years I have been flattered by questions from friends, family and acquaintances regarding the cameras I use an some of the techniques I employ while enjoying our adventures. The answer to all is essentially the same: Only take pictures in places where no matter when, where and how you point the camera, the result is always a unique and magical photographic image. Summarizing: if you like photography - go to ANZ. It’s a guaranteed photographic ecstasy experience.


Drop dead gorgeous - and I love her so much!
Yes, glacial runoff is just that beautiful turquoise color! 
Ferry ride in the evening. The structure on the horizon is a lighthouse.

Our third glacier hike. When you trace the recession of each - it saddens you.

The Great Ocean Road - perhaps our favorite view and motorcycle ride ever!!

The picture says it all...breathtaking.

The flowers were everywhere - beautiful! 
Gorgeous water fall.

Queenstown is one of this planets most beautiful cities.

Queenstown

Hello!! I'm a flower that demands to be noticed.

Melbourne - eclectic beauty.

More of the beautiful turquoise water!


Sunday, November 20, 2016

Ferry from Picton to Wellington

We enjoyed a gorgeous evening cruise from the south island of New Zealand to the north island. The water was calm, the weather was warm and the sunset settled in to perfection. Tonight we sleep in Wellington.

Ferry leaving Picton



Lighthouse at sunset

Lighthouse pre-sunset

From Kiateriteri to Picton by car

Our lovely mother apartment had two bedrooms a living room and...a kitchen! So, for the second time we bought groceries and cooked in. Chili - yum! Yes, of course we made enough for breakfast.

After our boat ride around Abel Tasman, we jumped in the car and headed for Picton. In case you're wondering, the entire country of New Zealand was designed by a motorcyclist. You've never twisted and turned so much in your life! The scenery is superb!!


Typical roadside scenery.

Duck Family

As we traveled to Picton, we came close to the scene of the recent earthquake. Road damage was severe in places. Jordan's trip planning has been superb!



Saturday, November 19, 2016

Kiateriteri, NZ by Boat

Wow! No...let me rephrase that..."WOW!!"
The south island of New Zealand is not for those who can easily suffer from sensory overload. It is beauty and grandeur on steroids. As if it couldn't get any better, we took a boat cruise around Able Tasman NP. The weather was spectacular as in clear skies and perfect temperatures. We do, however, suffer from eyestrain.

Water Color Painting

Adrift

Beach and Sky

No hurries, mate!

The entire trip lasted about 3+ hours and kept you on the edge of your seat.

Friday, November 18, 2016

Road trip to Franz Josef

We left Queenstown early this morning en route to Franz Josef. The day was brilliant blue skies and perfect cool temps. Literally every turn provided eye-popping beauty. The mountains in New Zealand are rough and craggy and abundantly adorned with brilliant white snowy peaks. They seemed endless as we made our way south. Jordan pointed out that we were closer to the south pole than we were to the equator i. e. “way down under!”




Upon arriving at Franz Josef we had a short time to stretch our legs and backs before beginning an informative hike to the Franz Josef Glacier. We experienced the same thing here that we previously encountered in Alaska; a sad journey in memoriam to a dying giant. Yes, the Franz Joseph glacier like many others on the planet is melting. It's staggering to see how much has been lost in just the latter portion of my lifetime. 

Our guide, Tim, was a twenty-eight year old Kiwi that was bursting with love and passion for this land he loves so dearly. We were treated to his stories about the native people, the flora and fauna of his native land. It was a great day indeed!

Learning from Tim

Nearing the glacier

Glacier ice that floated downstream

Hiking Around Queenstown

Today was a typical Queenstown grazy day. That said, Queenstown is breathtaking. We hiked around town for literally miles and miles. Our pedometers suggested that the elevation changes were equivalent to climbing 45 floors. No worries, mateys; it’s all good in Queenstown. Here’s a few snappers from our walk:


Lake Wakapitu

Lake Wakapitu

Wednesday, November 16, 2016

New Zealand 7-day Road Trip

We were shocked to learn of the earthquake in New Zealand and had no idea how it would affect the next portion of our trip. While certainly unfortunate for the New Zealanders affected by the quake, we were fortunate to find that our flights and our routes all around both islands of New Zealand were unaffected by the catastrophe. How’s that for good timing and good fortune?

After a nice 3-hour flight from Melbourne to Christchurch, NZ we arrived at roughly 2:30 PM. We whizzed through immigration and customs, and rented our car to begin the 300+ mile journey from Christchurch to Queenstown. The trip was, in a word…breathtaking. Everything to include mountains, valleys, hillsides, rivers, streams, flora and fauna are on steroids. We stopped and took pictures all along the way. Had it not turned dark, we’d probably still be out on the road somewhere snapping away. Tired but excited, we arrived in Queenstown after 10 PM. The innkeepers had left our keys taped to the door; we found our room and crashed.

Today, however, we worked refreshed and super-charged. With unpredictable weather we headed out to conquer one of the most beautiful cities on planet earth. Queenstown should rank high on everyone's bucket list. It's inexplicable; you've just got to be here! I'd like to post more pics, but WiFi constraints prevail. Enjoy!




Australia by BMW GS

It’s been a while since we checked in and lot’s has been happening. First of all…Australia rocks! That said, if yesterday’s preview of New Zealand is any indication…then the price of poker just went up! OMG!!!

Let’s backtrack a bit first:
We rented a bike and rode the Great Ocean Road and returned by way of Grampions NP. 




For starters the weather in ANZ in the spring is unpredictable. It’s similar to Northern California and the Pacific NW in that the price of lush greenery is ample moisture. We’ve been out and about rain or shine. So far we’ve had more 8-10 mile days of walking than not.

While the exchange rate is quite favorable, things are still quite expensive. For example, it’s hard to keep even simple meals-for-three under $100. While the gas tanks of our rental vehicles are small, a tank of gas ranges between $50 and $100. It was also a surprise (and ultimately a significant expense) to find that our American insurance companies don’t cover our driving overseas.

WiFi is a challenge as well. Our hotel in Melbourne charged handsomely for the use of WiFi. Other locations not only charge, they also restrict the number of connections. Now you understand why I haven’t been posting regularly. At our hotel in Queenstown, we are not only limited to the number of connections, but have a limit on the number of megs/gigs we can use.

On to more fun stuff!
The Great Ocean Road is AMAZING! Now…ride it on a BMW motorcycle - that’s off the charts!! Trust me folks, the colors in the pictures here and in videos to come are just how it looks in person.

From the GRO we headed north back through Grampions NP. We visited it once by car, but the weather did exactly cooperate. The motorcycle version, replete with great weather was well worth the instant replay.